Kyle's Photography

Lighthouse Tour By Bike
By Kyle Purves

The lower Saint John river between Fredericton and Saint John is home to 15 lighthouses, 8 cable ferries, 1 non-cabled ferry, several nearby covered bridges, rolling farmland and scenery that has to be seen to be believed. Overstating the beauty of the Saint John is not an over-exageration. Although you can drive the scenic route 102 between the capitol of Fredericton and the port city of Saint John in about an hour and a half it is best just to take it slow and stop and see what this area has to offer. This route is also ideal for cyclists as well as boaters. Marina's can be found in Gagetown, Fredericton and Saint John. A system of old concrete wharves still exists in many of the communities along the river offering the boater a place to stop for the night. Small hotels, Bed & Breakfast's and campgrounds can be found all along the river. For a vacation package and more details visit the official Tourism NB web page.

To begin your journey start in the city of stately Elm trees, Fredericton. The city is home to many historical Victorian houses, most noteable along Waterloo Row. Although it never had a lighthouse built during the steamboat era from the early 1800's up to 1946, a lighthouse was built in the mid 1980's more as a tourism light that anything else. A gift shop, ice cream stand, bicycle rental business and museum are housed in this replica lighthouse. You can climb to the top for a nice view of downtown Fredericton and the Saint John river.

From the city head east on route 102, locally known as the Lincoln road, in the direction of the airport. Just past the airport before the road turns sharply right in Thatch road where the old Wilmot Bluff light can be seen as you turn onto the road. This lighthouse is privately owned now but has been kept up and is in great shape. It was de-commissioned in the 1960's. If you have time drive to the end of Thatch road and hike out the McDougall trail that runs along the river ,it offers great views of Thatch island.
Stay on route 102 as you enter Oromocto until you reach the Burton bridge which spans the Saint John. Here you have the option of taking the Trans-Canada highway(route 2) to Jemseg or contimue on route 102 to Gagetown. If you take the more scenic Trans-Canada be sure to get off at the Jemseg exit and follow the signs to the Gagetown ferry in lower Jemseg. It is roughly 56 km's to Gagetown depending on which route you take.
But before you head down to the ferry take a drive along route 715 along Washademoak lake to Cambridge-Narrows. Along route 715 keep an eye out on your right for the Hendry Farm road. You can see the old lighthouse from the road as you drive but go slow so you do not miss it. The Musquash island light is located at the head of the lake and can only be seen by boat. The Narrows has several popular campgrounds, corner stores and a small Inn by the local wharf. If you time it right in late June the Lupens are usually in bloom, adding a nice colourful bonus to the landscape. Take route 715 along the northern border of the lake till you get to Coles Island(route 2 juncture). Take a right on route 2 heading towards Sussex. At 6 km's take a right onto the Starkey road where you will cross the Starkey covered bridge(near Cody's). Continue on this road where it turns into route 710 to return to Cambridge-Narrows, cross the concrete bridge over the lake, then head back over to Lower Jemseg and Gageown.

The ferries along the Saint John, with the exception of one that runs from the Kingston Peninsula to Saint John, run on a steel cable that is tied down firmly to each side of the riverbank. They are quite safe, free and offer some great views of the river, islands and the lighthouses. The Gagetown light is located right next to the ferry landing on the west side of the river. Be sure you stop in the quiet village of Gagetown, home of the Loomcrafters, pewtersmiths and other various craftspeople. Gagetown is famous for it's number and variety of crafts produced from clothing to pewter cups to stained glass items, there is something for everyone here. Gagetown is really the quintessential rivertown. The historic Steamers Stop Inn once catered to the riverboat traffic that used to ply these waters in the late 1800's. Now they cater to the ever growing number of pleasure boaters especially from the United States. A nice to stop to have a lemonade or cup of tea is Beamsley's, located right on the waterfront. Their patio offers an excellent view of the marina and Gagetown island.

From Gagetown head south on 102 to Hampstead, about 20 km's distance. The Hampstead lighthouse is the smallest one in the province located next to the old concrete wharf within sight of the cable ferry. A nice trip to take is to cross over on the ferry to Wickham(route 705), take a right and go over to Bellisle Bay. At the route 124 juncture take a left going towards Hatfield Point and Springfield. At Springfield take a right onto 855 for a kilometre than take a right onto 850 which runs along the south side of Bellisle Bay. Be sure to keep an eye out for the cable ferry that runs across the bay, you'll need to take this over. Once back on route 124 simply follow it straight to the Evandale ferry to continue your journey.

Evandale has a nice old Inn too that once catered to the old ferry steamers on the 19th century. It has been restored and now caters to the ever growing tourism market. The lower Saint John has not been over-run by tourist "traps" or overwhelmed by tourism. It remains a "hidden gem" in the province which most people would like to keep it that way.
From Evandale continue south for 9 km's to the Oak Point lighthouse. Watch for signs for the Kiwanis or Oak Point Campground as you need to take this road in th see it. On entering the road(on your left) keep going straight to a United Church, you can park here. The light is located at the point, a short walking distance away. A craft store is located in the base of the lighthouse and is open in the summer.
From Oak Point continue on 102 for 20 km's till you get to Morrisdale. But before you get there stop at the lookout, next to restaurant, at Brown's Flats. Canton's island is the main attraction here. The Belyeas Point light is harder to find but can be seen from the road as you slowly drive by. Unfortunately there is no public access unless you want to trespass which a lot of people do.
From Morrisdale continue south for 5 km's to the 102, 177 juncture. Take a left going towards Westfield, you'll need to take the Westfield ferry over to the Kingston Peninsula. In summer there are two cable ferries operating here as there are at Gondola Point on the Kennebecasis river. Once on route 845 you'll need to take a right at the first juncture(in actuality it is just where 845 takes a sharp turn). A few miles out watch for the Sands Point road on your right(riverside), you'll need to take it to see the Sands Point lighthouse. A little furthur down 845 is the small Bayswater lighthouse, not too far away from the Bayswater(Milkish Inlet) covered bridge, built in 1920 having a span of 218.2 feet. The Bayswater light was built in 1914 and is a square white wooden tower. Cross the covered bridge. After 2 km's watch for the signs pointing the way to the ferry to Saint John(Millidgeville). Take this road out for a little over 1 km to the Kennebcasis Island cable ferry. McColgans Point lighthouse is on the Peninsula side just south of the ferry landing. You can get a nice view of it from the free cable ferry.

The last lighthouse to visit is the Cedars lighthouse located on the other side of the peninsula at Long Reach. The easiest way to get to it is to retrace your steps on route 845 but instead of turning back to the westfield ferry, take a right up to Long Reach. It is about 15.5 km's to the Reach. Stop at the first corner store on your left, across from a crossroads and ask for directions to it. As it cannot be seen from the road it is much easier to ask for directions locally on how to get to it as you have to take a side road down to it. It is located about .5 km's north of the corner store on your left.

There are several other lighthouses not mentioned at Swift Point near Randolph in Saint John and the Old Shampers Bluff light. One is practically gone and the other requires a 2 km hike out to see it.
The Saint John River Valley offers a lot in terms of beauty and a variety of attractions to see, photograph and visit. The 15 lighthouses may be the highlights but when you add the covered bridges, scenic countryside, craft stores, historic homes and friendly people in you have a winning combination for this lighthouse tour.